I looked around for quick & strong drawer joinery and finally settled on a 'groove & rabbett' joint because it was simple, quick, and if oriented properly and tightly fit I'm sure it'll be very strong. Especially with a high-quality material like baltic birch ply. I don't think it would be very strong with solid wood because of the short grain the joint would cause. Also, I'm not sure it would work great with domestic plywood because the plys are so thick. The bit of holding wood left after the groove is cut might want to tear off if the joint is too tight.
First I cut the groove. On the first run of drawers I used my router table but I had inconsistent results with each test joint I cut (for some reason) so I switched to the dado blade. It worked more consistently but I had to scribe each cut to prevent tear out.
For Euro-style bottom mount slides the drawer bottom must be captured which adds another step into the drawer construction. I made sure to reference the fence to the top side of the drawer so that the top was all flush during glue-up. It means that I had to re-setup for every different drawer height but it made for less clean up after glue up.
3 comments:
jeez, production work don't sound too bad. if i only knew all i needed was a cnc and booze. is this pretty much the last thing to be done on the cabinets? is this house a flipper or a liver?
I have to make a bunch of drawers for a commission so I'm watching how you do these. They'll have under mounted sliders too I think.
I'm currently waiting for the weather to clear up so I can lay all the drawers out on sawhorses and spray a coat of finish on them, clear polyurethane. When I get some finish on them and get them installed I'll post some more detailed pics. What's the commission?
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